The Pegu Club Cocktail


Gin is one of those spirits that it seems a lot of people have an aversion to. I suppose when you think about it, it isn’t too surprising. Juniper, which is one of it’s key flavoring elements, isn’t necessarily something that most people’s palates are familiar with.

When I encounter somebody who indicates that they don’t like gin, I make it a point to find out why. Once we get past the vague generalities of “it tastes nasty”, and “I don’t like eating pine trees”, I try to discover exactly where their previous taste experiences come from. More often than not, the source of their aversion is an unfortunate experience is from a Martini. This is indeed unfortunate, since the Martini (which we will cover in a future installment) is a wonderful cocktail, when properly made. The problem however is that even a proper Martini is not something I would foist upon an unsuspecting neophyte. It is a full-on cocktail that should only be attempted once the training wheels are off. But another unfortunate part of this, is that most Martini’s these days are simply a glass of cold gin. Yeah, there is usually a whisper of vermouth in there somewhere, but not nearly enough to really make a difference.

Of all the spirits (brandy, gin, rum, tequila, whiskey, and vodka), gin is essentially the only one that is not traditionally expected to be enjoyed “neat”. Granted, the modern gin Martini is pretty close to this, but that’s probably why most people have moved away from gin, and request their’s made with vodka instead. Gin however is a wonderful cocktail spirit, in fact I would argue that it is probably the best cocktail spirit. The challenge for me then, is to present a gin-phobic drinker with a gin cocktail that they will actually like. Fortunately, I’ve got many to choose from. Today I’d like to introduce you to one that I think has a wonderful flavor profile.

Pegu Club

  • 2 ounces gin
  • 3/4 ounce orange curaçao
  • 3/4 ounce lime juice
  • 1 dash Angostura bitters
  • 1 dash orange bitters

Stir with ice. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime peel.

When properly made, this drink has a nice citrusy backbone to it, with a hint of spice. The gin itself is barely noticeable, and provides the complexity that makes everything work well together.

Not only is this drink fairly old, it also has been pretty much forgotten over the last few decades. This drink was originally the house drink at the Pegu Club, which was a British establishment in Rangoon during the 20s. It is a rare treat to find a bartender who knows how to make this drink, much less has heard of it. Hopefully this will be changing, due in part to the newly open “Pegu Club” in New York, where you can obviously find one of these on almost every table.

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Reader Comments

Is Cointreau or Triple Sec a suitable substitute for the curaçao here?

Also, where do you get your orange bitters? I’ve made Charles Baker’s recipe, but I doubt my version is completely authentic because I can find no source for Seville orange peel, only for sweet orange peel.

Thanks. I totally dig your articles here.

I’m a bit worried about the curaçao also. It’s one of those ingredients that’s used in a very small amount of drinks(in my neophyte experience). And since I’m a big fan of multi-tasking/versitile ingredients, I’m unsure if it’s prudent to stock orange curaçao.

For orange bitters, I found some cheapo orange bitters made by Collins at the local liquor store. Only a couple of bucks. I’m sure it’s nowhere near the quality of Fee Bros since the #1 ingredient is Propylene Glycol, but it’ll probably get the job done.

re: Orange curaçao…

There are several different variations on “orange flavored liqueur”. Curaçao, Triple Sec, Cointreau, Grand Marnier, plus various brands of “substitutes”.

To a certain extent, each of these can substitute one for the other, with reasonable, but not always great, success.

or to perhaps put it into better context:

Butter, Olive Oil, Safflower Oil, and Lard… To a certain extent, each of these can substitute one for the other, with reasonable, but not always great, success.

:->

Historically, Orange curaçao was first, then the Cointreau folks decided to do them one better by coming out with their “more refined” (triple distilled) version that they called “Triple Sec”. Then immitators started hitting the scene, also using the term “Triple Sec” to refer to theirs. Cointreau didn’t want to be lumped in with them, so removed Triple Sec from their label, retaining only the brand name “Cointreau” which could not legally be used by other brands. I feel that curaçao has a slightly more “rustic” flavor that I prefer in some drinks, such as the Pegu, while Cointreau has a more refined flavor that I prefer in drinks such as a Sidecar.

If your goal is to build out your liquor cabinet on the cheap, then I’d recommend focusing on finding a brand of Triple sec that you really like. It can easily substitute for either curaçao or Cointreau. Both curaçao and Triple Sec can be found pretty cheaply, around $10 a bottle for a pretty good brand, while Cointreau is in th $30+ range.

But I’d still recommend having curaçao, triple sec, and Cointreau (and perhaps Grand Marnier) in your cabinet just for the sake of experimentation and research.

-Robert

re: Orange Bitters…

You can find a good recipe for “Orange Bitters” in “The Joy of Mixology” by Gary Regan. A book I highly recommend.

For purchasing Orange Bitters I recommend either “Fee Brothers” (www.FeeBrothers.com), or “Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6″ (which you can purchase online from www.BuffaloTrace.com). And there is a brand I’ve heard of being made in Japan that is suppose to be very good, but I haven’t located a source for it yet.

These are two rather different variations on a theme. Fee’s is realatively simple in flavor, with a distinctive orange and sweet note to it. You could almost drink them “as is”. The ROB#6 on the other hand is a more astringent and sharp flavor that comes closer to what I feel orange bitters should be.

If you can’t find OB locally, then you can either call Fees and order from them, or get ROB#6 via the BuffaloTrace website (go to the giftshop). The “single bottle” price with shipping is a tad steep, so I personally recommend ordering a case (since the shipping is the same either way) and this gives you some extra bottles to give out to some of the bars you frequent so that they can make some of the drinks I’ll be listing here as well. This won’t be the last time you see OB cocktails here!

Here in Seattle I can get Fee’s Orange Bitters at DeLaurenti’s in the Pike Place Market, at many (if not all?) “Central Market” stores, and I’ve seen it at a few other locations as well.

There is also a new “bitters” on the market being sold by “Stirrings” (www.Stirrings.com) called “Blood Orange Bitters”. It is a rather simple in flavor brand, similar to Fee’s, but it is also non-alcoholic, and has a rather distinctive “fruitiness”. It’s worth picking up if you see it and experimenting with.

-Robert

The other thing people might consider is checking through the “minis” any time they are in a liquor store. A lot of times people don’t realize that the selection of minis varies from store to store and season to season - many of the stores stock up for the Christmas holiday. Not everything comes in a mini-version but a lot of the more expensive brands do. And a lot of new brands do, too. It’s a good way to buy something that you think you’ll only use once or twice or if you want to experiment with the different flavors. For instance you could pick up 3 or 4 different gins and see which one you prefer in this cocktail.

DeLaurenti’s in Seattle now carries Regan’s Orange Bitters #6 as well as Fee’s (and Peychaud’s)–I saw about a half-dozen bottles on the shelf earlier today.

Paul, that’s GREAT news! I was just about ready to order another case from Buffalo Trace. I -knew- I should have dropped into DeLaurenti’s when I was downtown this weekend…

-Robert

Finally got around to trying this one. And boy am I glad that I did. This is a FANTASTIC cocktail and will surely make my regular list. The spices from the gin mix perfectly with the bitters and lime.

Also, while I was at the store picking up the curaçao, I asked them about special ordering orange bitters. The manager seemed interested and we got to discussing how it’s a staple in several classic cocktails. He asked about places to get them and I gave him Fee’s contact info. Crossing my fingers…

Yes, the Pegu is one of those cocktails that baffles me why it slipped into obscurity. I’m glad to see so many people starting to pick it back up again.

By the way, how is “Pegu” pronounced? Is is PEEgoo or PEGyou or how? Thanks!

I pronounce it PEH-goo… and you know I’m always right :->